Description:
This rare diamond bangle bracelet was made by Henrik Tallberg in St. Petersburg during the reign of Czar Nicholas I (1825-1855). Like many imperial jewelers, Tallberg was a Finnish goldsmith who apprenticed in the Russian capital, and became a member of the guild in 1819. This bracelet shows the characteristics of fine jewelry workmanship from tsarist Russia's imperial capital. Designed as an openwork rose gold bangle, the top is enhanced with a cluster of seven old European-cut diamonds and flanked on each side by a rose diamond-set flower. Each flower is set with a round old- European-cut center diamond. Typical of the early 19th century period, the backs of these mounts are closed. Of hinged construction, the interior of hidden clasp is stamped with Cyrillic maker's initials H.T, 56, the Russian gold standard for 14k, and the hallmark for St. Petersburg (crossed anchors and sceptre).
by Henrik Tallberg, St. Petersburg, circa 1825
Diamond section measures 1 3/8 in. (3.5 cm.) long, 3/4 in. (1.9 cm.) wide; interior of opening measures 2 6/16 x 2 in. (6 x 5.1 cm.)
Antique-cut Diamonds
This bracelet is set with both old European and rose diamonds, two cuts that were developed before the 20th century. Like the modern brilliant, the old European-cut diamond is also round, but has a higher crown, or upper portion and a smaller table (top facet). Contrary to popular belief this type of faceting can create more brilliance and scintillation in diamonds than the modern cut. The rose diamond, which is covered with facets and has a flat base was developed in India in the 1500s. Rose diamonds appear in both European and Russian jewels as sparkling accents to larger stones.
19th Century Russian Jewelry
Russia has long been a source of fine gems and minerals, from emeralds in Transbaikal region and fine demantoid garnets and alexandrites from the Urals, to diamonds in Yakutia. The empire’s most famous diamonds are still housed in the Kremlin's Armory museum, the Tsar’s treasury in Moscow said to date from the early 16th century, and the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. By the mid-19th century, new advances in mining technology saw an increase in diamond production, enabling St. Petersburg based-firms such as Bolin, Tillander and Hahn to make jewelry more accessible. In addition to gems, Siberia and the Urals yielded enormous deposits of gold and platinum. Not only did this enrich the native jewelry industry but it made Russia the world's leading exporter of precious metals.
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